So, to get a beer that is OK at my temperature range, without trying to control it with a swamp cooler, is Safale S05? If so, I will try that and see if I get any better results. I know Nottingham and S04 is meant to be really good. I bottle in coopers dark, plastic bottles that say oxygen baring, so I don't think it is an oxygen problem. I have never used Safale S04 or Nottingham, but I have had yeast bite in my beer using Coopers. The strong, undesirable bitterness (that is not with commercial beers) comes after bottling (I drink it after a hydrometer test). If you pitch a small amount of yeast into a large amount of wort (bottle dregs into 1L starter for example) you risk a high chance of infection. just after primary fermentation has finished (about 7 days), it tastes OK. Bacteria, wild yeast and other sources of infection have the ability to out grow and out compete good yeast by several orders of magnitude. May I add that when tasting the beer prior to bottling, i.e. I topped it up with cool water to the right temperature for pitching, then lastly added the hopped malt extract to the fermenter. I heated some water and added the DME and small amount of dextrose I was using to dissolve it. Also, I let it bottle condition to carbonate for two weeks. Nottingham is a single strain yeast (s.Cerevisiae) and does not have more than one strain and no lager (s.Pastorianus). I let it sit in primary for 9 days (I realise now that 2-3 weeks is better). I also had an LCD thermometer on the side that did not get above 20 Celsius. First I rehydrated some yeast and plated it out on WLN agar. This was even when at prime fermentation. Saturday, 1 November 2014 The truth about Nottingham Ale Yeast My first investigations into what exactly Lallemand's Nottigham Ale Yeast is have been completed and the results are surprising. I floated a beer thermometer in my fermenter to take an actual reading (I love floating thermometers) and it was about 20 Celsius during fermentation (actual wort temperature), so the ambient temperature did not affect it in this instance. My last question for you is "How long do you let your beer ferment and bottle condition before drinking it?" Could it also be that your beer is just green? This basically entails putting your fermentor in a tub with some shallow water, draping a cloth over it which hangs into the water, and blowing on it with a fan. You could probably manage this easy enough with the swamp cooler method. Since your kitchen stays at about 20*C/68*F you'll probably want to bring your fermentation down a few degrees depending on the yeast strain. That said, you could get away with just using bottled water and not worrying about blending. If you have your water's profile, you can blend it with bottled water to achieve a more appropriate amount of mineral content. If you brew a pilsner or amber ale with hard water, it will taste bitter. Beers brewed in regions with soft water (Pilsners) will taste better with soft water. Beers typically brewed in regions with hard water (Stout for example), will taste better with hard water. However, I'd still go with one of the other yeasts, and better temp control will absolutely produce a better beer.Īre you able to get a water report from your water company? If so, you can compare your water profile with the typical water profile for the style. Since you specifically said it has a bitter aftertaste, my bet is still on the water. ( $5 for 11.Yes, the best bet is to do everything possible to give your beer the best chance of success. I believe it is the Sierra Nevada pale Ale yeast – one of the best pale ales out there. It starts quickly and imparts good fruity notes. ( $3 for 50g)Ī pale ale yeast that produces a clean, crisp cider. If you like your cider dry, this is the east for you. Its a hearty yeast that can ferment in a broad range of temperatures and will inhibit wild yeasts. This champagne yeast is a low foaming, vigorous and fast fermenter with a high alcohol and sulfate tolerance. ( $4.39 for 11g)Ī well-known, commercial English ale yeast, selected for its fast fermentation character and its ability to form a very compact sediment at the end of the fermentation, helping to improve cider clarity. It produces low concentrations of fruity and estery aromas and has been described as neutral allowing the full natural flavor of the cider to develop. The Nottingham strain was selected for its highly flocculant & relatively full attenuation properties.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |